Nigazz da uma olhada no que estes caras falam... (tem que se registrar no site)
http://www.shootsmarter.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=173&acat=16TTL Gear that WORKS
TTL Tip #1 presented by Quantum. The advancements in TTL over the past 2 years has been
amazing. You need to know that half of your TTL performance is inside the camera, and
the other half is in the flash. That's why you can slide a Canon 580EX onto your 10D and
the TTL is pathetic, yet the same flash on the 5D rocks the house down. Here's a list of
the cameras and flashes that will work to our standard in TTL mode when used with our 10
steps technique:
Camera Bodies listed in no particular order
Canon: 30D, 40D, 5D, EOS1D,1Ds, all of the Mark 2's, all Mark 3's.
Nikon: D200, D300, D3, all D2 flavors.
Fuji: Only their S5 (same TTL as the D200)
Other: none. Sorry. : (
Flash Units listed in order of best TTL Exposure Tolerance. Please note that this is a
TTL test, not an AUTO or Manual mode test, nor a "features" test - just TTL performance.
Quantum Qflash T5dr and T5D: when used with any of our recommended camera bodies above.
Metz 58AF1 when used with any of our recommended camera bodies above.
Canon 580EXII when used with any of the Canon recommended camera bodies above.
Nikon SB800 when used with any of the Nikon or Fuji recommended camera bodies above.
Canon 580EX when used with any of the Canon recommended camera bodies above.
Nikon SB80 DX : when used with any of the Nikon or Fuji recommended camera bodies above.
Can TTL work with gear not on this list? Well, kinda. you can for instance get the TTL
system to work with the 20D, D100, S3 bodies but they will not produce files that fit
into the exposure tolerance range with any sort of consistency. It's my opinion that
using a TTL system under pro conditions that can barf up one exposure that is off by as
much as a whole stop every 10 to 12 frames is silly when a little knowledge + practice
on how to get the AUTO or Manual exposure modes on your flash working will bring your
exposures right in line. We've seen it here at SSU for years: students who struggle at
getting their TTL flash to work in JPEG mode (or within the same +.5 and-.7 stop
exposure tolerance of the AUTO exposure correction feature in Photoshop Camera RAW)
simply flip over to AUTO exposure mode and get their D100 / 20D / S3 purring like a
kitten. Maybe this is why the folks at Canon have now (finally) added an AUTO exposure
mode to their new 580EX2 flash? ; )
What about using 2 TTL flashes at the same time? YES AND NO. You can get 2 TTL flashes
to work in a wireless TTL system by using the first flash on the cameras' hot shoe,
activating the transmit TTL function (remote command / master flash feature) if your
flash has one and activating the second flash to receive the TTL info from the first
flash. It will allow your camera to fire each units preflash separately (you can
actually see the delay) then compute the correct exposure to fire both at the same time.
You can adjust these 2 flashes to have a "ratio" between them if you like, and it will
work - as long as they are both placed no further than your arms' length away from your
camera or each other. Once you move them beyond that, like the the owners manual shows
you, they cannot process the exposure info correctly and quickly fall out of our
exposure tolerance range. The TTL transmitters from either Canon or Nikon will not save
your bacon here either. They both offer the ability to slide your flash out of the hot
shoe and place it away from the camera while still working in TTL mode by filling the
hot shoe with a transmitter that will allow you to send all kinds of info back and fore
between your camera and the flash. They will do a decent job at triggering the flash in
a typical room up to about 30 feet, but they do not "enhance" the TTL info exchange and
are restricted by the arms length handcuffs in order to work accurately.
How can we make the best of this 2 light TTL situation? Here's where the gear matters.
The Canon 580EX tools do work better in a multi light TTL system than the Nikon SB tools
do, but the Quantum Qflash with the cool Qnexus module works best as the second flash
only - not the first flash. Confused yet?
BTW, the new Metz 58AF does work as the master or slave with either the Canon or Nikon
wireless TTL systems and is an excellent choice for this as it's easier to use than the
Canon flashes - just as easy as the Nikon flashes.
So what should I do with my gear that's NOT on this list? Either give up on TTL with it,
or eBay that badboy and step up to TTL that works. BTW, don't even THINK about using
your 10D as your "backup" camera to your shiny new 5D, that's really a bad idea. A
backup is just that - a failsafe tool to use if your primary camera fall into a river
and makes a splashy - blub blub blub kinda sound as it sinks slowly our of sight. Once
you figure out how TTL works on the 5D, then loose your 5D in the middle of a job and
grab the 10D - you're well, sunk. : ) You're backup needs to be a true backup - the same
body that performs the same way with TTL.
What about using a Flashmeter? Most TTL systems will fire a small flash before the
"real" flash on every frame. This is called the PreFlash, and it very important to the
whole TTL enchilada. The trouble with flashmeters is that they read the preflash and
skip the real flash. You can measure your TTL flash by using 2 meters. One in MULTI
flash reading mode (see your Sekonic or Gossen owners manual) which will add the
preflash and the real flash together, then use a second meter to read only the preflash.
You can them subtract the preflash from the MULTI flash reading and have a great day. No
even I, the super digi-nerd that I am, do this.
How do I judge the exposure of a TTL flash file? By using the Facemask Histogram
technique. Please read the Facemask smArticle or watch your copy of Digital Exposure
Control for more info?
